Foot Tour No. 2: The Old City -- Financial District Portion

[earlgreytea68]

Foot Tour 2 was two miles through what the book called “The Old City.” Nowadays, we call it the Financial District and the North End. I foolishly had not thought to charge my camera before embarking on the Foot Tour, and it died while I was on City Hall Plaza, which was actually perfect timing, because that was basically the conclusion of the Financial District part of the tour.

The Financial District is where I work, and it may surprise everyone to know that I don’t like my job, so I found this tour dull and icky and underwhelming and slightly stress-inducing. I think that was not just because I work here (okay, maybe the stressed-out part was), but because it’s the area of the city that is most populated by modern buildings, so it’s not very attractive.
 

30. (the numbering is continuous from the first Foot Tour) The Boston Atheneum.

 

Or however you spell it, because the book has one of those combined letters in the name. This building is huge, and I had a hard time getting a picture of the whole thing. This is the best I could do. The book is dismissive of it, calling it “a minor Renaissance gesture in the Palladian style that seemed significant then.” In 1937, it apparently contained “one of the most famous private libraries in the country,” consisting of 200,000 books including “most of George Washington’s private library.” I have no idea if this is still true. The building looks open to the public, but I am ashamed to admit I know nothing about it. I’ve never really heard of anyone visiting it. At any rate, here’s another little tidbit: the collection was apparently begun by the “Anthology Club,” a club formed in 1807 by the father of Ralph Waldo Emerson.

31. Park Street Church.

Built in 1809. Park Street is the busiest T stop in the city, and this greets you as you get aboveground. It also sits perched on the corner of Boston Common, which the book has not yet discussed at all. The book does have praise for “the semi-circular porches between the tower base and the body of the main building,” and “the tower proper.”

Some historical points that I never knew until the book told me: (1) The church was built on the site of the Granary where the sails of the U.S.S. Constitution were made; (2) During the War of 1812, gunpowder was stored in the basement of the church, causing the corner to be nicknamed “Brimstone Corner” (the book talks as if that is a current name for it; if it was still fashionable in 1937, it’s fallen out of fashion now, as I’ve never heard it before); and (3) Henry Ward Beecher used to preach guest sermons here.

32. Old Granary Burial Ground.

This is actually one of my favorite places in Boston. I adore old cemeteries, and I’ve wandered through this one many times. This place has many notable graves:

the victims of the Boston Massacre,

Sam Adams,

Ben Franklin’s parents,

Paul Revere,

John Hancock

(and one of his servants),

and James Otis. Mother Goose is also buried here (her name was Mary Goose, but yes, she is that Mother Goose). I know I’ve seen her grave before, but I could not find it anywhere on this trip. The maps are not all that helpful in this burial ground, like most maps in Boston…

33. Tremont Temple.

This is a building I have literally never noticed before, although I walk by it lots. Apparently, a church has stood on this site since 1839. However, the book does not tell me when this particular building was erected, nor does it tell me anything about its architecture, which is noteworthy, since it doesn’t look like any other building in Boston. All the book tells me is that an earlier temple that stood on the spot from 1850 to 1852 was the scene of a performance by Jenny Lind. Either the author of the book had a crush on Jenny Lind, or this was an extremely notable thing back in 1937… The book also states that “it is one of the most popular evangelical congregations in Greater Boston.”

34. King’s Chapel.

First, the Omni Parker House Hotel.

Which was apparently not a landmark when the book was written, but is the site of the invention of Boston cream pie. So there you go.

As the plaque explains.

Okay, on to King’s Chapel.

The book tells me it was “built in 1749,” and then, a few sentences later, tells me it “was built in 1754 around a wooden building which was then dismantled.” So, make of that what you will. It is both the first Episcopal church in New England and the first Unitarian church in America. The church was apparently supposed to have a tower, but it was never built. The book has a lot to say about the interior being “perhaps the finest Colonial church interior extant,” with a “studied suavity of proportion” that makes it “a work of genius.” Sadly, I could not go in because a service was just starting up. One of these days, I’ll have to remember not go to my regular church so I can try a service at one of these old churches.

35. King’s Chapel Burial Ground.

Dating from 1630, this is Boston’s oldest burial ground, but only boring people are buried here.

36. Boston Public Latin School Tablet.

Does pretty much what it says on the tin. The site of the first Public Latin School in America, dating from 1635. The book notes it’s on the wall of the Parker House (see above re: Omni Parker House Hotel).

Opposite this tablet is Old City Hall, which, when the book was written, was the current City Hall.Which may be why it doesn’t get a mention.

37. Old Corner Bookstore Building.

Which is a jewelry store now. The building was built in 1712, and from 1828 to 1903, “it housed the most famous bookstore in Boston, and at one time the offices of Ticknor and Fields, who published the early works of all major New England poets. Through its doors strolled Hawthorne, Emerson, Longfellow, Lowell, and Holmes, as well as Whittier, the latter rarely, for he was shy and confused by the roar of nineteenth-century traffic.” This bookstore is now in the heart of my least favorite area of Boston, Downtown Crossing, which is always crowded with high school students who apparently never go to school and who like to shout profanities across the street at each other. I’m a New England Puritan, okay? This offends my delicate sensibilities. I wonder what Whittier would think about the gangs of roving teens. Downtown Crossing used to house the very famous Filene’s Basement, beloved by those who like to shop, which was literally in the basement of a Filene’s. There is no longer a Filene’s or a Filene’s Basement, which is very sad, and Downtown Crossing has gone downhill since. It is, however, home to a Wendy’s. Fast food is difficult to come by in Boston, and especially Wendy’s, so this is very exciting. It’s also the place where you can buy lilacs and peonies when they’re in season off the street vendors.

In the photo below, you can see a clock coming off a building, in the lower center of the photo. That clock was on the Filene’s building, and still reads “Filene’s.”

38. Old South Meeting House.

Built in 1729 to house a congregation that had been founded in 1669, the book says it “shared with Faneuil Hall the most fervid and momentous oratory of Revolutionary Days, and an Old South meeting was always a danger signal to Burke and Pitt.” The book notes, “Here began the line of march of the Boston Tea Party,” a scene detailed in “Johnny Tremain.” I will let Esther Forbes tell her story:

“About Old South, standing in the streets, inside the church, waiting for Rotch to return with the very last appeal that could be made to the Governor, was the greatest crowd Boston had ever seen – thousands upon thousands. There was not a chance, not one, Johnny could ever squirm or wriggle his way inside, but he pushed and shoved until he stood close to one of the doors. Farther than this he could not go – unless he walked on people’s heads. It was dark already.

“Josiah Quincy’s voice rang out from within. ‘I see the clouds roll and the lightning play, and to that God who rides the whirlwind and directs the storm, I commit my country…’

“The words thrilled Johnny, but this was not what he was waiting for, and it was not Sam Adams speaking. He was bothered with only one thing. Quincy had a beautiful carrying voice. It was one thing to hear him and another Sam Adams, who did not speak well at all.

“The crowd made way for a chaise. ‘Rotch is back! Make way for Rotch!’ Mr. Rotch passed close to Johnny. He was so young he looked almost ready to cry. This was proof enough that the Governor had still refused. Such a turmoil followed Rotch’s entry, Johnny could not hear any one particular voice. What chance had he of hearing Sam Adams’s words? He had his whistle in his hand, but he was so jammed into the crowd about the door that he did not believe he would be able to get his hand to his mouth.

“’Silence.’ That was Quincy again. ‘Silence, silence, Mr. Adams will speak.’ Johnny twisted and turned and brought the whistle to his lips.

“And suddenly there was silence. Johnny guessed there were many in that crowd who, like himself, were hanging on those words. Seemingly Mr. Adams was calmly accepting defeat, dismissing the meeting, for now he was saying,

“’This meeting can do nothing more to save the country.’

“Johnny gave his first shrill blast on his whistle, and he heard whistles and cries seemingly in all directions, Indian war whoops, and ‘Boston Harbor a teapot tonight!’”

Old South did used to be a church, as it was the night it hosted the final speech before the Boston Tea Party. Its wooden steeple is “more impressive” than the steeple on the Old North Church, which was built first. I have no opinion on this. But it is quite nice.

It also used to have pews. The British used the church as a riding-school during their occupation of Boston. The city restored the church, but then removed the pews in 1876, when the church became just a meeting house. This was the point at which “the women of Massachusetts” bought the church, when it had been slated for destruction because of the value of the land it sits on. In 1937, the building was apparently “still used for public meetings of civic or social protest.” Today, it is open to the public and sits on the Freedom Trail.

39. United States Post Office and Federal Office Building

The book describes this as a “massive new granite building in modern style.” It points out the tablet that commemorates the great Boston fire of 1872, which destroyed 60 acres and caused $60 million worth of damage, and which was halted at this point, apparently.

The Post Office, nowadays, gives its name to nearby Post Office Square, which is a beautiful square in the heart of the city, not far from where I work but far enough from other tourist distractions that, on a nice summer day, it’s mostly professionals and not tourists enjoying lunch on the grass.

 They actually put out plastic cushions, so you can sit on the grass without ruining your business suit, and classical musicians play for you, string quartets and things of that nature. It’s lovely, and one of my favorite bits of Boston.

40. Site of the Boston Massacre

There it is, there. In the words of the book, “A cobblestone circle indicates the exact spot where the first patriots fell when fired upon by British soldiers.”

41. Old State House

Built in 1713, its “architect is a mystery.” The lion and the unicorn, on either state of Dutch stepped gables, are the British coat of arms. The book tells an interesting story I’d never heard before: “This was the State House of the British in the eighteenth century, until the Revolution, and thereafter of the Commonwealth until the new State House was ready in 1798. In 1881, it was proposed to demolish the Old State House, because the land was valued at $1,500,000. At this juncture, Chicago offered to transfer the building to Lincoln Park on Lake Michigan and take care of it, paying all the expense of removal and reassembly. The offer stung Boston so sharply that the City Fathers agreed to stand the loss on the land in perpetuity, and never again to threaten the building with removal or destruction.” And the State House still stands, in the middle of the city’s bustling Financial District, with busy streets veering out of its way at odd angles.

Every Fourth of July, the Declaration of Independence is read to the crowd from its balcony. In 1937, the building housed the Bostonian Society. It still does today. It also has a T station—State—in its basement.

42. Ames Building

Apparently, Boston’s first skyscraper, at 13 stories, erected in 1891. “It is among the rare instances of skillful adaptation of the Richardson Romanesque to commercial purposes.” It’s being re-imagined as a hotel.

43.Site of the Franklin Printing Press

Pretty much what it says on the tin. On the site now stands a shelter for homeless veterans.

44. Site of Paul Revere’s Goldsmith Shop

Sadly, this appears to be lost to history. The address the book gives, 175 Washington Street, no longer exists.

I think this building sits now right around where Paul Revere’s shop would have been. The “One Washington” address appears to be One Washington Square.

45. Dock Square

This is something else that no longer exists. This is the area now known as Government Center (which is the name of the T stop) or City Hall Plaza (which it technically is). It. Is. Hideous. And it is why new buildings should never be built in Boston. Boston’s City Hall is just revolting.

 And City Hall Plaza itself, while nice as an open gathering place (this is where the rallies are held when the Red Sox and Patriots win), is not the most attractive spot in the city.

It’s supposed to invoke the piazzas of Italy. I don’t think it succeeds.

At any rate, apparently, in 1937, this area was known as Dock Square, because it seems that the docks of the waterfront used to extend to here. I do not consider Government Center to be overly close to the waterfront, so this was interesting to me (I guess it’s probably about a ten-minute walk). Dock Square, in 1937, was the market district: “From earliest dawn till dusk it is in constant turmoil, with huge vans unloading whole carcasses of meats, and crates of fruits and vegetables piled over the sidewalks. The predominant human type is the market-man, in soiled apron and inevitable straw hat, but many a humble shopper is also here, bargain-hunting.” There’s still a farmer’s market in this area (it’s actually a bit gross, because the alleyways around here get full of rotting foods that attract all the rats and mice and disgusting things of the city), but, otherwise, it’s full mostly of young professionals bustling through to go to work. And oh, does the wind tunnel over this plaza in the wintertime. It’s absolutely brutal.

46. Faneuil Hall

The book tells me it’s pronounced Fan’l. That’s actually not right in modern times, when we say Fanyouil.  This is fairly common in Boston, this change in pronunciation of place names. It’s because of the influx of new inhabitants every year, with a fresh crop of students, and slowly their pronunciation becomes the most common pronunciation. The same thing has happened to Copley, which used to be pronounced with a long “o,” and Alewife, which used to be said Allywif.

Anyway, Faneuil Hall is the “Cradle of Liberty” because of the Revolutionary meetings held there. It was a gift to the city in 1742 by Peter Faneuil, a wealthy merchant (who’s buried Old Granary, incidentally). The bottom floor was used as a public market, and the top floor was used as a town hall. The bottom floor still houses shops today. The top floor is used for various events. I saw a free production of “1776” here the summer I studied for the bar. I also was sworn into said bar here. I am told that the Massachusetts Bar has the most beautiful swearing-in ceremony of any bar in the United States, and, if the D.C. bar swearing-in ceremony is anything to judge by, that would appear to be correct. It’s really very meaningful to sit in a building of such historic importance and be welcomed to the bar, and they make a big deal out of having you sign your name into the book of bar members, whose oldest volumes contain the signatures of people like John Adams.

Anyway, the original Faneuil Hall was destroyed by fire in 1762, then rebuilt, and then added on to in 1805.

The weathervane is a grasshopper, which the book calls “the most noted steeple adornment in Boston.” I am told “an American consul once tested those claiming Boston citizenship by asking them what is on top of Faneuil Hall.” Well, then, I would totally have failed that test, because I’d never noticed the weathervane.

This is interesting: “Faneuil Hall is protected by a charter against sale or leasing. It is never rented, but is open to any group upon request of a required number of citizens agreeing to abide by certain prescribed regulations.” I have no idea if that’s still true, but it seems likely.

And here’s where my camera died, so here endeth this part of the tour. I think that was plenty long enough, really…

Comments

[azriona.livejournal.com]

I went to the annual wedding gown sale at Filene's Basement one year. I went in, saw the insanity, and immediately turned tail and RAN. Thus endeth the story of me at the infamous Filene's Basement wedding gown sale.

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

I couldn't handle Filene's Basement on a regular day. I think wedding dress day would have made me die.

[azriona.livejournal.com]

Apparently you have to go in with a battle plan. And an army. I had neither.

[outforawalk.livejournal.com]

Your current music scares me.

Your tour on the other hand looks like so much fun. Even if it isn't your favorite area of town, it is exciting for the armchair travellers among us!

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

Hahahaha! That show is crack!

I feared it wasn't the most interesting part of town, but I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[nattieb.livejournal.com]

King's Chapel Burial ground. Isn't that where Jonathan Winthrop and the woman that inspired Hawthorne's Hester Prynne are buried?

Can you tell I just started teaching my students about the Puritans?

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

Hahahaha! It could be! The 1937 book didn't mention it, and I kind of hated "The Scarlet Letter" so I didn't pay attention.

Ah, the Puritans. They shaped *so* much.

[auntiesuze.livejournal.com]

I actually know folks who still pronounce it "Fan'l Hall", so I don't think that's died out entirely.

City Hall Plaza is supposed to be like the Italian piazzas? I gotta say no. I've always thought that area was singularly unattractive. And the docks once made it there??? o_0 As you say, it's quite a ways from the waterfront, so I just can't picture it.

I didn't know Paul Revere's shop was right there. I can't believe they destroyed the site for that concrete monstrosity.

Did the author actually use the word "suavity"? LOL

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

Oh, interesting. I've never heard it said "Fan'l" before!

Well, to be fair, it was destroyed even before that monstrosity. In 1937, the spot where it had stood was just marked by a plaque. Sadly, though, I couldn't even find that plaque.

And yup. Suavity.

[frakup.livejournal.com]

I'm so glad you got that book! Since I know almost nothing about Boston and have never lived east of Chicago, all of this is fascinating to me. So much history that I don't know anything about.

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

I'm glad you're enjoying it! I'm glad I got the book, too!

[jfiliberti.livejournal.com]

I think I'm going to use your walking tours this weekend. My friends and I are coming up tomorrow and we'll be there until some time on Tuesday, but we have absolutely no plans to occupy our days. These walking tours may serve as excellent inspiration as to some sites we can visit while there, and considering how beautiful the weather is supposed to be, it's the perfect weekend to ramble about the city. I can't wait to get up there and away from my city and my financial district where I not only work, but live as well. Ugh, what was I thinking?

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

Oooh, definitely ramble! You are supposed to get gorgeous weather!

There's an apartment building across the street from where I work, and some lawyers live there. I envy them the commute when I'm working late, but it's so nice not to have be near work sometimes, you know?

I have a dentist appointment on Monday morning, so I'm going into work late, but I may be able to do lunch, if you're around and bored.

[jfiliberti.livejournal.com]

but it's so nice not to have be near work sometimes, you know?


Oh yes, and I agree. It is really a glass half empty/glass half full situation - easy and cheap commute (walking's always free) versus constant reminders of work during your free time; being able to sleep late and cook dinner every night versus always expected to be in early because you live the closest; blah, blah, blah. I'm just dreading the day we have another city-wide blackout or public transportation fails and I'm expected to host my co-workers who can't get home. I know, overly pessimistic thought, but given the last few years here, something is bound to happen. But just because I work with those people does not mean I want them in my home.





Lunch would be fun if you're available on Monday. The friends I'm travelling with are in the same profession, so we're all planning on working for a bit Monday morning before heading out, so we'll keep in touch to see if lunch works, yeah?

[capemaynuts.livejournal.com]

Did the railroad ever make it to the 'docks'? Because the term is sometimes used to refer to places where cargo is stored before changing modes of transportation. just some useless trivia I got from my foamer brother. (foamer= insane train chasing fanatic as in they foam at the mouth at the sight of a train)
Anyway, if and when I ever make it up to Boston, I have decided that I am hiring you as my tour guide. You describe the city so well and so wonderfully, that you are making this city hater actually want to go.
I can't wait to read the rest of your tour.

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

Hmm. If there was a railroad there, there's no trace of it today. The book isn't really much help.

I love to act as tour guide! I love cities, but I especially love *my* city, and I'm glad that I'm able to communicate at least a bit of that!

[io-aenaria.livejournal.com]

Oddly enough, I remember that Wendy's in Downtown Crossing. I used to go there for lunch when I worked at Filene's. It was one of the cheaper places around to get food that was 1) hot and 2) wasn't from the 7-11 across the street. ;)

And I haven't thought about that in years, lol. What I do remember about Filene's is that from the inside of the building you could see the black mesh that they had placed over the windows, supposedly to block the sun, however me and the other clerks would joke that they were there to prevent us from jumping out and making our escape. Oh, the memories... :)

[earlgreytea68.livejournal.com]

Yes, I can imagine, Wendy's is one of the only cheap places in the *city* to get a cheap lunch. And oh, yes! I remember that black mesh over the windows! I agree, it did give it a prison feeling, and I didn't even work there!